Utah

Salt Lake City

Salt Lake City surprised me. One minute you are walking through a lit-up downtown, the next you are on a trail with the whole valley and the mountains spread out below you. I came in November, just in time for the fall colors, and spent my days between canyon trails, cozy cafés, the planetarium, and long brunches.

Ensign Peak Big Cottonwood Canyon Downtown Fall colors

Downtown at night

A neon sign at the airport reading hello SLC — Day one, hello SLC

In pictures

Evie leaning on a wooden fence at Ensign Peak with Salt Lake City and the mountains behind her — Ensign Peak overlook

Evie laughing in a lime green top and white skirt under an autumn tree — Autumn in lime green

Evie posing with a lime green bag under copper autumn leaves — Fall colors, matching bag

Evie looking over her shoulder in a lime green top and headscarf — Golden-hour glance

Evie on the steps at Ensign Peak Nature Park surrounded by red and orange shrubs — Ensign Peak trailhead

Evie in a green set with mountains and autumn trees behind her — Mountains on every horizon

Evie striking a playful pose inside Clark Planetarium — Clark Planetarium

An Apollo spacesuit on display at Clark Planetarium — The Apollo suit

Evie next to a tree wrapped in string lights downtown at night — Downtown after dark

City Creek Center at night

Evie with her suitcase in the blue-lit wave tunnel at Salt Lake City airport — Leaving through the airport’s blue wave

On video

Downtown, mountains in view

Restless Planet exhibit

City Creek stroll

Big Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain drive

The view from Ensign Peak

Landing at night

My Salt Lake City picks

Evie by the Ensign Peak Nature Park sign beneath the golden hill

Favorite experiences

Hiking up to Ensign Peak for the view over the whole city and the mountains. Walking Big Cottonwood Canyon among the fall colors. Playing astronaut at Clark Planetarium, from the Apollo suit to the Restless Planet exhibit. And City Creek Center at night, when the whole place glows.

A taco held up on a sunny street with mountains in the distance

Where to eat

Coffee by the window at From Scratch. Sawadee for Thai: the food was delicious, even if the service was slow that night. A long brunch at Skillets, served on a tiered stand with waffles and fresh fruit. Boba at Fashion Place Mall, and a taco spot a local recommended that turned out to be a hidden gem.

A highway heading toward a dark mountain ridge at dusk

Planning tips

Come in autumn for the fall colors on the trails. Ensign Peak is a short hike with a huge payoff, so aim for a clear morning or sunset. The canyons are close to the city, so you can hike in the morning and be back downtown for dinner. And save an evening for City Creek Center.

Evie raising a coffee mug by the window at From Scratch with autumn trees outside — Coffee at From Scratch

A Thai platter of grilled meat, vegetables and rice at Sawadee — Dinner at Sawadee

Brunch at Skillets

A marigold napkin folded into a sculpture on a black plate at Sawadee — The table setting at Sawadee

Two boba teas held up inside Fashion Place Mall — Boba at Fashion Place Mall

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